Hi folks!

Media across the globe is going mad about the climate changes and the green house effects. Each part of this globe is experiencing a climate change towards the worse.

But how can we contribute as a common man towards better times to come? (at least we must leave some legacy for our future generations!)

Global temperatures have been on the rise because amount of heat-trapping gases has been increasing. Carbon Dioxide is one such gas which, when present in excess of certain amount, traps the heat of the earth within atmosphere, which otherwise would have been released to upper atmosphere.

Methane is other such gas in the family of Green House gases.

So, the question is “how a common man like us can help”?

USE LESS ELECTRICITY : specially when it comes from burning fossil fuels, like coal, petrol, diesel etc. Worldwide, electricity use is responsible for one-fourth of emissions.

Replace incandescent bulbs with LEDs. Insulate your home and make it energy efficient. Set your temperatures higher in summer and lower in winters. Use glasses that reflect heat, or that produce solar energy.

Generate electricity without emissions: Use solar energy, wind energy, tidal wave energy etc to produce electricity.

Shrink the footprint of the Food: Today, one fifth of the emission come from raising the animals. As they graze and digest food, they burp and emit Methane gas, which adds to the green house gases. Their manure releases carbon dioxide. Though forests help in absorbing carbon dioxide, we leave no stone unturned in cutting down the forests in the name of development.

As per the estimates, if half of the population converts to plant based diet by 2050, 65 GIGATONS of carbon dioxide would be kept out of the atmosphere.

Travel without making greenhouse gases: Avoid travelling by means that are gas guzzlers, like planes, petrol/diesel powered vehicles. Instead, make use of hybrid vehicles, electric vehicles etc. Use bicycles for small distances.

Help take out carbon dioxide from atmosphere: create carbon dioxide sinks. Plant bamboos, trees. Conserve forests, grasslands, peatlands and wetlands.

Jai Hind!

Gardening in June

Vegetables

JUNE: All gourds, Brinjal, Cucumber, Cauliflower (Early), Okra, Bitter gourd Onion,Sem,Tomato,Pepper ,zucchini, summer squashes, cucumbers, and melons.

Though we had planted summer vegetables in March but many of you who couldn’t can still go ahead.

 Plant these crops on hills or  in mounds where the soil stays warmer. Add a spadeful of compost or well-rotted manure into each hill.

Summer vegetables should be kept evenly moist.

Transplants should be watered every day until they are well established. Don’t let tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, melons, zucchini, squashes, or cucumbers go dry–this will impede quick and even growth which is essential for sweet, tasty fruits at harvest.

 1 PLANTING EGGPLANTS AND PEPPERS

Be patient with eggplant and peppers. These crops require a soil temperature of 70°F (21°C), the daytime air temperature above 70°F, and night air temperature above 60°F (15°C). Sun and heat are essential for these plants to reach flowering and fruiting.

Protect crops in the garden from extreme hot temperatures.

Hold off feeding until eggplants and peppers blossom then use moderate nitrogen and high phosphorus and potassium. Use Epsom salts to stimulate root structure.

 2 PLANTING CUCUMBERS

Like eggplants, cucumbers thrive in warm weather.  Cucumbers mature quickly and are easy to look after. Pinch out the growing tips of cucumber plants when seven leaves have formed. This will keep the plant at a manageable size. Once flowers appear, water cucumbers regularly; avoid washing soil away from the roots.  Feed every two weeks with liquid manure once the first fruits have started to grow.

3 Okra is a heat-loving annual plant that requires 55 to 65 days with temperatures consistently above 85°F (29°C) for full growth, flowering, and pod development.

Description. Okra is a tender, heat-loving annual that grows 4 to 7 feet (1.2-2.1m) tall and produces a green and sometimes red seed pod which is harvested when 3 to 5 inches (7-12cm) long and sometimes longer. Okra has prickly stems and large maple-like leaves and large, yellow, hibiscus-like flowers with red or purplish centers. Mature  pods contain buckshot-like seeds.

Yield. Grow 6 okra plants for each household member.

Companion plants. Basil, cucumbers, eggplant, melons, peppers.

Container growing. Okra does not grow well in containers. Choose spacing-saving varieties for container growing.

Okra growing in garden

Established okra plants can be kept on the dry side; stems rot easily in wet or cold conditions.

CARING FOR OKRA

Water and feeding. Keep okra evenly moist until established. Established plants can be kept on the dry side; stems rot easily in wet or cold conditions. Add aged compost to planting beds in advance of planting and again at midseason. Add gypsum if the soil is slow draining.

Care. Pods contain a sticky sap that may be difficult to remove from clothing or tools. Prickles on pods can cause an allergic reaction.

Pests. Flea beetles and aphids may attack okra. Pinch out aphid-infested vegetation or knock flea beetles and aphids off plants with a strong stream of water.

Diseases. Okra is susceptible to verticillium and fusarium wilt which will cause plants to suddenly wilt, dry up, and die, usually in midsummer just as plants begin to produce fruits .

Beans

There are many varieties of beans you can grow like Lobia beans, French beans,Clover beans, Green gram beans, Gvar fali etc.

Grow beans in full sun, 8 hours of sun or more each day. Beans will grow in partial shade but the harvest will not be full. Grow beans in well-drained soil rich in organic matter. Prepare planting beds in advance by working 2 to 3 inches (5-7cm) of aged compost into the soil. Avoid planting beans where soil nitrogen is high or where green manure crops have just grown; these beans will produce green foliage but few beans. Beans prefer a soil pH of 6.0 to 6.8. Keep the garden clean and free of debris. Remove and dispose of infected plants.

 Rotate crops to prevent the buildup of soil-borne diseases.

FEEDING CROPS

Spring-sown and transplanted crops will be ready for an extra nutrient boost as soon as they begin to flower. Side-dress young plants by drawing a circle with your finger around each plant at its drip line to a depth of about 1 inch (2.5cm) deep.

Sprinkle a tablespoon of organic fertilizer around each plant or add a line of aged compost; work it gently into the soil with a hand tool and then water well. The extra nutrients will help blossoms develop into fruit and yield sweet-tasting vegetables.

Tomato irrigation

Consistent even moisture is essential for vegetable growth.

WATERING CROPS

When the weather is dry, water summer crops so that moisture reaches deep to the roots.  A long, slow watering is best. Most crops want an inch of water each week–this means soaking the soil down to a depth of 4 to 5 inches (10-12cm). Stick your index finger into the soil to gauge watering.

 Water in the morning or evening when evaporation by the sun is low.

WEEDING

Stay ahead of weeds. Weeds compete with vegetables for moisture and nutrients. Don’t let them get a foothold in the garden. Those who had sown seeds earlier must check pests and spray to control them. Do put traps for fruitflies otherwise you will not be able to enjoy your fruits of labour. Enjoy your vegetables and keep on growing them to remain healthy.

Flowers

You can sow seeds of Balsam :Impatiens balsamina. This is self seeding plant bearing red ,white,purple ,pink hues which add colour in the garden. These days hybrid and double variety has also come into the market. So try .

Marigold: You can sow it’s seeds now to have early blooms

Moss Rose Purslane : You can still raise plants from the cuttings .

Happy Gardening.

Rama Tyagi

tyagirama1@gmail.com

 Best Homemade Natural Garden Fertilisers

You don’t have to buy expensive fertilisers! Your garden will thrive with these DIY versions made from items around your pantry and backyard!

Natural fertilisers and compost

Organic gardening is as popular as ever, and the methods we use play a critical role in our health and the health of the planet.

There are many different all natural garden fertilisers that you can use right in your garden or with potting soil. Some of these fertilisers can be made or collected at home using common items from your pantry or your backyard. Here are 8 of our favourite DIY fertilisers for a variety of needs.

If you have an organic lawn, make sure to collect your grass clippings to use on your gardens. Half an inch to an inch of grass clippings makes a great weed-blocking mulch, and it is also rich in nitrogen, which is an essential nutrient for most plants.

Weeds

Weeds are high in nitrogen and make excellent fertiliser if you make weed tea.

Weed tea makes great fertiliser

Just like grass clippings, many of the weeds that you’ll find in your gardens are very high in nitrogen and will make an excellent fertiliser. The problem is, once you’ve pulled the weeds, you certainly won’t want to put them back in the garden because any seeds will sprout and make new weeds. The solution? Make weed tea. To do this, fill a five-gallon bucket no more than 1/4 full with weeds that you’ve pulled. Then fill the bucket the rest of the way with water, and let the weeds soak for a week or two. Once the water turns nice and brown (like tea), pour this nutrient-rich weed tea on your gardens.

Kitchen Scraps

Compost your kitchen and garden waste for your garden.

Compost

Put your kitchen and garden waste to work by making your own compost. Compost releases nutrients slowly, which means a well-composted garden can go a year or two without requiring reapplication of fertiliser. Compost also helps the soil retain moisture, which is essential for vegetable gardens to thrive during hot, dry summers.

Manure

Cows manure is high in nutrients but you’ll need to use it carefully in your garden so you don’t burn your plants.

Manure comes from a variety of sources — cows, horses, chickens, and even bats. Each type of manure is high in nitrogen and other nutrients, but you’ll need to use it carefully. Raw manure is highly acidic and may actually have more nutrients than your plants need, so too much can burn your plants. It’s best to use composted manure. Since it is less nutrient-dense and acidic, you can use more of it to improve your soil’s water retention without risking your plants. You won’t have to wait long—manure quickly turns to a perfect odour-free soil amendment.

Tree Leaves

Rather than bagging up the fall leaves and putting them out on your curb, collect them for your gardens instead. Leaves are rich with trace minerals, they attract earthworms, they retain moisture, and they’ll help make heavy soils lighter. You can use leaves in two ways: Either till them into your soil (or mix crushed leaves into potting soil), or use them as a mulch to both fertilise your plants and keep weeds down.

Coffee Grounds

Coffee grounds come with a lot of uses, but one of their best is as a garden fertiliser. Lots of plants, such as blueberries, rhododendron, roses, and tomatoes, thrive best in acidic soil. Recycle your coffee grounds to help acidify your soil. There are a couple of ways to do this— you can either top dress by sprinkling the used grounds over the surface of the soil, or you can make “coffee” to pour on your gardens. Soak up to six cups of used coffee grounds for up to a week to make garden coffee, then use it to water your acid-loving plants.

Eggshells

Egg shells are 93% calcium carbonate and help lower the acidity of the soil in your garden.

Eggshells help lower the acidity of your soil.

If you’ve ever used lime in your garden, then you know it comes with lots of benefits — chiefly, it helps lower the acidity of your soil for plants that don’t like acid, and it provides plants with lots of calcium, which is an essential nutrient. Lime itself is an all-natural fertiliser that you can buy at the garden centre, but if you’d rather save some money, there is a cheaper way to get the same benefits. Simply wash out the eggshells from your kitchen, save them, and crush them to use in your garden. It turns out that eggshells are 93% calcium carbonate, which is the scientific name for lime. See what else you can do with eggshells here!

Banana Peels

Roses love the potassium in banana peels.

We eat bananas for their potassium, and roses love potassium too. Simply bury peels in a hole alongside the rose bush so they can compost naturally. As the rose grows, bury the peels into the soil’s top layer. Both of these approaches will provide much-needed potassium for the plant’s proper growth. Read about trench composting here.

Happy Gardening

Rama Tyagi

tyagirama1@gmail.com

Identify Common Types of Weeds

Common Weed Characteristics

Plants often reproduce in different ways: rhizomes, cuttings, runners, ETC. They produce many seeds, usually tiny seeds, that have burrs, float, or disperse easily. If you pull some weeds out, they might break off and re-sprout. Weed can usually live in many environments, soils, and conditions, They grow fast. Seeds can remain dormant for many years and can self-pollinate. Poisonous or extremely invasive weeds are best removed, while other weeds may be more welcome around your home.

Use this list to identify common weeds plus their potential pros and cons.

Weeds are often thought of as nuisance plants that invade lawns and gardens. Many common weeds have “weed” in their name, like ragweed, knot weed, and chickweed. If you can identify which plants are weeds, you can also learn how to control or eradicate these common garden weeds. However, you might not want to get rid of some attractive weeds; they can serve as a useful groundcover, they can be potted to remain controlled, and some are edible.

1 Dandelions (Leontodon taraxacum)

Dandelion weed with small white seed heads surrounding top of stems in grass Dandelions are a harbinger of spring. Their bright yellow flowers often poke up through lawns and appear between cracks in driveways and sidewalks. While these perennial plants have multiple medicinal uses and can be eaten in salads or used to make wine, many homeowners would prefer eliminating dandelions.

How to control it ?

Keeping dandelion seeds from germinating won’t be enough to eliminate the plants. You can use herbicide to eliminate your dandelions, but the most effective and least harmful approach is to dig the flowers up from the roots.

2 Plantain Plants (Plantago major)

Plantain weed plants with small green cone-shaped flower heads on thin stems A relatively innocuous plant, common plantain can be mowed whenever you mow the lawn. It tolerates heavy foot traffic and compacted soil which means that it quickly colonises any lawn that sees a lot of hard family use. Plantain has oval-shaped medium leaves that grow in broad, low rosettes. Now a ubiquitous lawn weed in North America, broadleaf or “common” plantain was brought to the New World by colonists from Europe for its medicinal uses.

How to control it: Pull or dig up plantain weeds. Keep pulling them up before they can produce seeds. Eventually, the plant will give up. It may seem like a continuous process, but persistence is key.

3 Common Ragweed (Ambrosia artemisiifolia)

Common ragweed may be an essential weed for you to identify, even if you don’t care about keeping your yard weed-free for aesthetic reasons. If you’re an allergy sufferer, you should know that common ragweed is a major source of hay fever.

How to control it: Ragweed can’t tolerate constant mowing or rich soils. Maintain a healthy, mowed lawn in its place on a regular feeding schedule to keep ragweed at bay “Giant ragweed” is a summer weed named for its ability to grow up to 15 feet tall, with thick roots and branches. It’s mainly a problem in the agricultural Midwest United States. Like its ragweed cousin (and unlike goldenrod), giant ragweed produces a great deal of pollen which causes severe allergies.

How to control it: Giant ragweed seeds can produce up to 5,000 seeds per plant, dispersing via the wind. Its seeds can also live 10 years in the soil. This plant is a crop killer. To keep it at bay, keep lawns healthy. Healthy grasses can keep giant ragweed from taking over. Tilling stands of seedlings can also disrupt their life cycle. If herbicide is necessary, employ a pre-emergent herbicide in the spring (Atrazine).

4 Hedge Bindweed (Convolvulus arvensis)

Hedge bindweed plant with small pink flowers surrounded by arrow-shaped leaves Hedge bindweed has a reasonably attractive bloom, similar to the morning glory, which can be white or pink and have a pleasant fragrance. But this is no innocuous weed. If you let hedge bindweed get out of control, it will get a stranglehold on your yard like Gulliver in Lilliput. There is a reason for that “bind” in “bindweed.”

How to control it: Effective control requires prevention of seed production, deep tillage of the root system, and pulling out plants. Also, apply herbicides or landscape fabric on top of it to smother it. It needs light to grow, although it can remain dormant for up to five years.

5 Ground Ivy (Glechoma hederacea)

Ground ivy, a common lawn weed, goes by several names. For instance, it is also called “gill,” “gill-over-the-ground,” and “creeping charlie.” Although considered a weed, ground ivy has a pretty flower, and when you mow this weed, it gives off a pleasing aroma. Ground ivy is also used as a medicinal herb.

How to control it: If you have a small area, dig and pull to remove this weed. It may be somewhat ineffective since stems or roots left behind can continue to grow and spread. Being persistent can lead to successful eradication. However, you can also rely on broadleaf herbicides applied in late September, then again a month later

6 Purslane (Portulaca oleracea)

Purslane is a succulent in the Portulacaceae family that contains five times the amount of essential omega-3 fatty acids that spinach has; its stems are also high in vitamin C.8 It is a mat-forming plant with a crispy texture and interesting peppery flavour. It is often served raw in salads but can also be cooked as a side dish. It’s sometimes also called pigweed, but it should not be confused with Amaranthus retroflexus, also called pigweed, which is an edible weed in the amaranth family.

How to control it: Purslane can be controlled well by hand pulling if you do it when the plant is young and before it goes to seed. If it’s seeded itself, you can also use post-emergent broadleaf herbicide on young plants to eradicate it.

7 Stinging Nettle (Urtica )

Stinging nettle weed plant pointed leaves and serrated edges. The flowers of stinging nettle plants are inconspicuous. However, you’ll pay plenty of attention to its barbs if you’re unfortunate enough to brush against stinging nettle. The discomfort these weeds can cause seems inconsistent with the fact that stinging nettle is edible. But the young leaves of stinging nettle are cooked and eaten by wild foods enthusiasts. Just be sure to pick the right time and prepare properly to ensure safe consumption.

How to control it: This plant is best managed by hand pulling. Wear gloves to protect your hands from the stinging hairs on the plant stems. Also, perform close mowing to prevent the plant from developing its fruit.

8 Curly Dock (Rumex )

Curly dock weed plant with greenish blooms clustered on long thin flower stalks in sunlight

Curly dock (also called “curled dock” or “yellow dock”) is found all across the world. Each plant produces tens of thousands of seeds that remain viable in the soil for decades, leading to considerable invasive potential.

You’ll be able to identify curly dock by its greenish blossoms that cluster in long thin flower stalks at the top of the plant. After the flowers have dried and turned brown, they remain in place, making the plant easy to recognize. Be aware that curly dock is toxic.

How to control it: You can control curly dock by tilling and uprooting this plant. Mowing will prevent seed production and reduce top growth. If it becomes problematic, apply a post-emergent herbicide in the fall. You can also apply herbicides in the spring.
WARNING Curly dock is poisonous and should not be eaten.

9 Clover Leaf (Trifolium)

While many consider clover a “weed,” there’s nothing wrong with mixing a little clover into your lawn. The Irish think various tripartite clover leaves (such as the one in the photo) are “shamrocks.” The tradition behind the shamrock is quite distinct from that behind four-leaf clovers.

How to control it: Clovers are relatively easy to manage in the home garden by hand-pulling, cultivation, and mulch application. In large, landscaped areas, herbicides may also be necessary. Clover seeds have a hard seed coat that is heat tolerant; composting and solarization do not kill the seed. It can survive many years in the soil, sometimes making eradication difficult.

10 Wood Sorrel (Oxalis stricta)

Common yellow woodsorrel is a native North American weedy plant called shamrock or sheep’s clover. It produces yellow cup-like flowers with five petals from mid-spring to fall. Each leaf is divided into three heart-shaped leaflets. This herbaceous annual can also grow as a tender perennial and is found everywhere.

It grows erect, up to 15 inches tall, with stems that grow at a sharp angle (about 90 degrees) from the main stem. It has seed pods that bend sharply upward on their stalks. They may form colonies arising from slender but tough underground stems (rhizomes) but, more often, are individual, seed-grown plants. The weak stems branch at the base and sometimes will root at nodes. It can grow in most soils and conditions, even in the sidewalks’ cracks.

How to control it: Common yellow woodsorrel is best managed by hand weeding and mulching. It pulls up easily and does not rebound from roots left behind. Remove plants before seed pods develop. Most herbicides are ineffective, but you can try pre-emergent herbicides to prevent germination.

Happy Gardening
Rama Tyagi
tyagirama1@Gmail.com

The truth about “bio-degradable bags?”

Are biodegradable or compostable bags eco-friendly solutions?

Biodegradable bags are made from materials designed to break down into natural components over time. But their eco-friendly credentials vary greatly based on factors like composition (some are made from altered plastic, others from organic materials) and how they are disposed of.

Testing the eco-credentials

In 2019, researchers tested the so-called “environmentally friendly bags” to see how fast they could actually break down in the environment. The study was published in Environmental Science and Technology.

They tested five different types of bags commonly found in the UK

The experiment included a biodegradable bag made in part from oyster shells; a compostable bag made from plant products; a standard plastic bag; and two bags made from oxo-biodegradable plastic, which contain additives said to help the plastic break down faster.

Tested in four different environments over three years

The researchers then wanted to see how they would respond to different environments. So over three years, they studied how the different bags would break down in open-air, buried in soil, submersed in seawater and in the lab.

In the soil, not much happened in three years

Even after being cut into strips and buried for three years — none of the bags, not even the compostable one, had merged with the earth. Some minimal progress was seen with the composable bag, which after 27 months, could no longer hold weight without tearing.

In the sea: Only the compostable bag broke down

In the tough marine environment, none were able to break down in three years except the plant-based compostable bag, which disappeared in three months. After three years, the biodegradable bag was still strong enough to hold groceries.

Open air: All the bags responded similarly

This was the only environment that consistently broke down all the bags after nine months — even the standard plastic bag disintegrated. However, in all cases, as they broke down, they posed dangers for animals and were also major eyesores.

The conclusion: “No clear advantage for biodegradable formulations”

Unfortunately, the researchers found that protecting the environment isn’t as easy as tweaking a bag’s formulation. “Our results showed that none of the bags could be relied upon to show any substantial deterioration over a three-year period in all of the environments,” it states, suggesting that biodegradable bags didn’t show much of an advantage at all.

(sourced from Internet)

Sushil Bhatia

sush16534@gmail.com

MULCHING: WHY AND HOW

(As we are already in thick of summer, let us hear from none other than Dr Goel, the Whys and Hows of mulching in practice. He was live on Doordarshan few days back.)

SPREADING IT SLOWLY, BUT SURELY

Our Rama ji is a real power house for us; and for the green movement that she is taking forward, slowly but surely.

She is on a mission. And towards that, she organised a workshop in the Composite School, Gandhinagar, for the benefit of students. She educated students as to how to make Bioenzyme at house from the peels of fruits, (like oranges, Mausami, etc), flower petals etc.

THRU THE READERS’ EYES

Unveiling the Intertwined Connection: Plants and
Humidity Levels

Humidity, the amount of moisture in the air, plays a crucial role in the overall health and growth of plants. It directly influences the transpiration process, which affects a plant’s ability to absorb water, nutrients, and maintain proper hydration. Understanding the impact of
humidity on plants is essential for providing them with the optimal environment to thrive.

Effects of Low Humidity:

Plants rely on transpiration to regulate their temperature and transport vital nutrients throughout their system. In an environment with low humidity, plants experience increased water loss through their leaves, leading to dehydration and stress. The lack of moisture in the air can cause wilting, stunted growth, and even leaf curling or browning. Low humidity also reduces the plant’s ability to take in carbon dioxide, an essential component for photosynthesis. Consequently, the overall health and vigour of the plant are compromised.

Effects of High Humidity:

While plants require a certain level of humidity, excessively high levels can have detrimental effects. High humidity creates a moist environment that favours the growth of pathogens such as fungi, mould, and bacteria. These can lead to diseases, root rot, and leaf spot, weakening the plant’s immune system and hindering its growth. Additionally, high humidity can impede the plant’s ability to transpire, resulting in poor nutrient uptake and reduced photosynthesis. As a result, the plant may exhibit pale or yellowing leaves, reduced flowering, and overall stunted growth.

Maintaining Optimal Humidity for Plants:

To provide an ideal environment for your plants, it is crucial to maintain optimal humidity levels. Here are some tips to help you achieve the right balance:

 Know your plants: Different plants have varying humidity requirements. Research the specific needs of your plants and understand the ideal humidity range for their growth.
 Monitor humidity levels: Invest in a hygrometer to measure the humidity in your growing area. This will help you determine whether adjustments need to be made.
 Increase humidity: If the humidity is too low, you can raise it by using a humidifier, placing water trays near the plants, or grouping them to create a microclimate with increased moisture.
 Decrease humidity: If the humidity is too high, improve air circulation by using fans or opening windows. Additionally, avoid overwatering and ensure proper drainage to prevent excess moisture buildup in the soil.
 Mist your plants: Lightly misting the leaves of your plants can help increase humidity, especially during drier periods or in arid climates. However, avoid misting plants that are susceptible to fungal diseases.
 Provide proper ventilation: Good airflow is essential to prevent stagnant, humid conditions. Use fans or open windows and doors to ensure fresh air circulation.
 Group plants wisely: Some plants benefit from being grouped as they create a microclimate with higher humidity levels. However, ensure that the grouping doesn’t cause overcrowding, as this can lead to increased disease susceptibility.

Thriving in Humidity: Plants That Love Moisture

If you live in a region with high humidity or want to create a lush indoor environment, embracing plants that thrive in moist conditions is a wonderful choice. These plants not only adapt well to humid environments but also add a touch of greenery and freshness to any space. In this article, we will explore a selection of plants that love humidity, offering both aesthetic beauty and the joy of easy care.

Calathea (Calathea spp.):

Calatheas are known for their vibrant, patterned leaves, making them popular as decorative houseplants. These tropical beauties love humidity and thrive in warm, moist environments. Calatheas can be placed in bathrooms, near windows, or grouped with other plants to create a microclimate with increased moisture. They are one of the most alluring plants to purchase in nurseries thanks to their gorgeous foliage. I’m certain that many of you have purchased these plants only to lose them within a short time. A few years ago, I was even tempted to purchase the Roseo picto, a stunning Calathea with pink and scarlet leaves, but I refrained. Despite my best efforts, which included moving the soil around, I failed. Everything failed. The hybrids are particularly challenging to raise and develop. The plants you see at nurseries are nurtured in greenhouses with precise controls over temperature, humidity, light, and watering. The vendor at the nursery will, at best, inform you that the plant needs shade indoors and shouldn’t be exposed to bright sunlight. Humidity is not mentioned at all. And the one element that can make or break this plant is humidity.

Here are some helpful tips for successfully growing Calatheas:

 Provide indirect light: Calatheas prefer bright, indirect light. Avoid placing them in direct sunlight as it can scorch their leaves. Filtered light or a few feet away from a window with sheer curtains is ideal.
 Maintain high humidity: Calatheas are native to tropical regions and thrive in high humidity. Increase humidity levels by using a humidifier, placing a tray of water near the plant, or misting the leaves regularly. Grouping Calatheas with other humidity loving plants can also create a microclimate.
 Water properly: Calatheas prefer consistently moist soil but are sensitive to overwatering. Water your Calathea when the top inch of the soil feels slightly dry. Ensure proper drainage by using well-draining soil and a pot with drainage holes. Avoid letting the plant sit in standing water.
 Maintain moderate temperatures: Calatheas thrive in temperatures between 65-75°F (18-24°C). Avoid exposing them to cold drafts or sudden temperature fluctuations, which can stress the plant. Protect them from air conditioning or heating vents.

Philodendrons (Philodendron spp.):

Philodendrons are popular houseplants that are known for their lush, trailing vines and striking leaves. These low-maintenance plants are well-adapted to high humidity and thrive in tropical environments. They can be grown indoors in areas such as bathrooms or near windows with filtered light. More than 400 different varieties of philodendrons are produced for their lovely, glossy green foliage that comes in a variety of forms and sizes. There are primarily two varieties of philodendrons: Vining type and Upright growing.

Here are some tips to help you successfully grow philodendrons:
 Light requirements: Philodendrons prefer bright, indirect light. Place your philodendron near a window with filtered or dappled light, but void exposing it to direct sunlight, as it can scorch the leaves. Different varieties have varying light tolerances, so research the specific needs of your philodendron to provide the appropriate light conditions.
 Temperature: Philodendrons thrive in temperatures between 65-80°F (18-27°C). They can tolerate slightly cooler temperatures but are sensitive to cold drafts and temperatures below 55°F (13°C). Avoid placing them near air conditioning vents or in drafty areas.
 Watering: Water your philodendron when the top inch of the soil feels slightly dry. Allow the soil to drain properly, as philodendrons don’t like sitting in standing water. Overwatering can lead to root rot, so it’s important to strike a balance. Adjust the frequency of watering based on the humidity levels and temperature in your environment.

 Humidity: While philodendrons can tolerate average household humidity levels, they appreciate higher humidity. Increase humidity by using a humidifier, placing a tray of water near the plant (but not directly under the pot), or misting the leaves regularly. Grouping plants can also create a microclimate with increased humidity.
 Soil: Use well-draining potting soil that retains some moisture but doesn’t become waterlogged. A mixture of peat moss, perlite, and/or vermiculite works well for philodendrons. Good drainage is essential to prevent waterlogged roots and promote healthy growth.

Bromeliads (Bromeliaceae):

Bromeliads are a diverse family of tropical plants that thrive in high humidity. Their colourful and unique rosette-shaped foliage often forms a central cup that collects water. They are well-suited for terrariums, bathrooms, or any space with consistently moist air. They are relatively easy to care for and can thrive both indoors and outdoors. Here are some tips to help you successfully grow bromeliads:

 Light requirements: Most bromeliads prefer bright, indirect light. Place them near a window with filtered or dappled light, but avoid direct sunlight, as it can scorch the leaves. Some varieties can tolerate lower light conditions, but they may produce fewer blooms. Research the specific light preferences of your bromeliad species to provide the appropriate light intensity.
 Watering: Bromeliads have a central cup, also known as a “vase,” that holds water. Fill this cup regularly to keep it moist but not overly saturated. Use filtered or distilled water, as bromeliads are sensitive to chemicals and minerals found in tap water. Additionally, water the soil around the bromeliad to keep it slightly moist but not soggy. Avoid letting the plant sit in standing water to prevent root rot.
 Humidity: Bromeliads thrive in high-humidity environments. Increase humidity levels by using a humidifier, placing a tray of water near the plant (without the pot sitting directly in the water), or grouping bromeliads to create a microclimate. Misting the leaves occasionally can also provide a boost of humidity. Adequate humidity promotes healthy growth and helps prevent leaf browning.

 Soil and potting: Bromeliads are epiphytic plants, which means they naturally grow on other plants or surfaces in their native habitats. They don’t require soil to thrive. Use a well-draining potting mix specifically formulated for bromeliads or air plants. Alternatively, mount them on a piece of bark or hang them in baskets filled with orchid bark or sphagnum moss.
 Temperature: Bromeliads prefer temperatures between 60-80°F (15-27°C). They can tolerate slightly cooler temperatures, but prolonged exposure to temperatures below 50°F (10°C) can damage the plant. Protect them from cold drafts and extreme temperature fluctuations.

Spider Plant (Chlorophytum comosum):

The Spider Plant is a resilient and easy-to-care-for plant that is well-suited to humid conditions. It features long, arching leaves adorned with small offshoots, giving it a distinctive appearance. Spider Plants are adaptable and can tolerate a range of light conditions, making them a versatile choice for adding greenery to any room. Here are some tips to help you successfully grow spider plants:

 Light requirements: Spider plants thrive in bright, indirect light. Place them near a window with filtered or dappled light, but avoid direct sunlight, as it can scorch the leaves. They can also tolerate lower light conditions, but their growth may slow down, and variegated varieties may lose some of their coloration.
 Watering: Spider plants prefer evenly moist soil. Water them thoroughly when the top inch of soil feels dry to the touch, but avoid overwatering. It’s better to water less than to overwater, as excessive moisture can lead to root rot. During winter, reduce watering frequency, allowing the soil to dry out slightly between waterings.
 Soil: Use a well-draining potting mix suitable for houseplants. A mixture of peat moss, perlite, and vermiculite or a pre-packaged indoor plant potting mix works well. Good drainage is crucial to prevent waterlogged roots.
 Temperature: Spider plants prefer temperatures between 60-75°F (15-24°C). They can tolerate slightly cooler temperatures but are sensitive to cold drafts. Protect them from cold air conditioning vents or windows during winter months.

 Humidity: Spider plants can tolerate average household humidity levels, but they appreciate slightly higher humidity. If the air in your home is dry, you can increase humidity by using a humidifier, placing a tray of water near the plant, or misting the leaves occasionally. Grouping plants can also create a microclimate with increased humidity. Understanding the relationship between humidity and plant health is crucial for successful indoor gardening. Providing plants with optimal humidity levels promotes transpiration, nutrient absorption, and overall plant vitality.

By following the tips outlined in this article, you can create a favourable environment for your plants, ensuring their growth, beauty, and longevity. Remember to monitor humidity levels regularly, adjust care routines accordingly, and enjoy the benefits of healthy, thriving plants in your home or workspace.

Deepti Jain

FRIEND OR FOE?

THE VAT VRIKSH AND HINDU MYTHOLOGY

The Vat, Bargad or Banyan tree is one of the most venerated  trees in india. It has the ability to survive and grow for centuries and is often compared to the shelter given by God to his devotees in Hindu mythology. the tree is also called Kalpvriksha, the tree that provides fulfilment and other material gains.

It symbolises Trimurti; Lord Vishnu to be the bark, Lor Brahma the roots, and Lord Shiva the branches. The tree is also known for longevity, and hence, also called ‘Bahupada’, meaning one with many feet.

The Banyan does not let grow even a blade of grass underneath, thus symbolising not allowing for rebirth and death.

The tree is also considered sacred to the Buddhists, as Lord Buddha is believed to have got enlightenment while seated under this tree.

The bark and leaf buds of the tree are useful in arresting secretion or bleeding.

The fruit exercises a soothing effect on the skin.

The leaf buds of Banyan are beneficial in treatment of diarrhoea.

Tender roots are considered beneficial in the treatment of woman sterility.

Cleaning the teeth with the aerial roots of the Banyan is beneficial in preventing teeth and gum problems.

Apart from this, married ladies of Hindu do worship of the tree on VAT AMAVASYA asking for long life of their husbands. The day falls in the month of May of the year.

Sushil Bhatia

sush16534@gmail.com

वनस्पति उद्यान जब बिछाने के लिए कुछ सिद्धांत 

 वास्तव में आपकी वाटिका को मैपिंग शुरू करने का एक अच्छा समय है। यह विशेष रूप से सच है यदि आप अपने पहले वेजी गार्डन को शुरू कर रहें  हैं,  यहां तक कि अनुभवी माली भी उनके बगीचे के लेआउट की योजना बनाते हैं और निर्धारित करते हैं कि वे किस तरह से फसलों को आगे बढा रहे हैं।

 इसलिए हमने कुछ सुझावों का सुझाव देने की योजना बनाई है, जिसे हमें कहना है।

कैसे एक बगीचे शुरू करने और योजना बनाने के लिए

पहले एक बात याद रखना महत्वपूर्ण है: एक महान वेजी गार्डन बनाने में समय लगता है। “एक बागान वंडरलैंड रात भर में नहीं बनता ” “एक बगीचे का निर्माण करना  समय लेता है।

छोटे से शुरू करें .

यहां तक कि अगर आप भाग्यशाली हैं, तो काम करने के लिए बड़ी भूमि उपलब्ध  है,तो भी चीजों को प्रबंधनीय रखने के लिए कम से कम शुरू करने के लिए सबसे अच्छा है।

“एक छोटी सी जगह से शुरू करें ताकि यह बहुत भारी महसूस न करे।” “यह आपके बगीचे को बढ़ाने में शामिल समयबद्ध प्रतिबद्धता में एक महान अंतर्दृष्टि देगा।”

किसी भी बगीचे के लेआउट को शुरू करने का एक शानदार तरीका उन चीजों को विकसित करना है जिसे आप खाने के लिए प्यार करते हैं। वहां से, एक संपन्न ई-आवास के लिए कुछ लाभकारी परागणियों और मूल पौधों में जोड़ें।

“मुझे लगता है कि शुरुआती लोगों के लिए यह एक महान अभ्यास है जब वे बड़ी जगह की जगह  से थोड़ी जगह लेने की कोशिश करते हैं और वे कितना कार्य कर सकते हैं,” । “वहां से, आप अपने रोपण क्षेत्रों को समायोजित और विस्तार कर सकते हैं।”

अपने बाग के साइज को चिह्नित करें

आपके बगीचे के सापेक्ष आकार को निर्धारित करने के बाद, पहला कदम: अपने क्षेत्र को चिह्नित करें सुनिश्चित करें कि जहाँ भी आप अपने बगीचे को बनाने की योजना बना रहे हैं, वहां धूप आती है छाया है अन्यथा आप छाया में उगने वाले बीज चुने जो थोड़ी सी छाया  में उगते हैं।

“अपने बगीचे में एक सुंदर भूखंड को चिह्नित करें, या अपने नए शौक को समर्पित करने के लिए growbags  का चयन करें,” “सब्जियों को सूर्य के प्रकाश की आवश्यकता होती है, इसलिए छाया से दूर रखने  की कोशिश करें।”

यदि आपकी भूमि का आकार नहीं है,  क्षेत्र को बढ़ाने और बढ़ने वाले क्षेत्र को अधिकतम करने के लिए vertical gardening का उपयोग न भूलें, जिसे आप जमीन पर नहीं कर सकते हैं उसे आप वर्टिकल gardening ke dwara kar saktey hain एवम trellis ke द्वारा कर सकते हैं  ।

टिप : यदि आपके बगीचे का हिस्सा आंशिक छाया से अनदेखा किया गया है, तो इन शर्तों के तहत बीज के लिए ऑप्ट इन करें। उदाहरण के लिए, herbs and medicinal plants अन्य सब्जियों की तुलना में अधिक छाया को बर्दाश्त कर सकता है।

अपने सिंचाई को पूर्व-योजना बनाएं

गार्डन में सिंचाई( ड्रिप इरिगेशन)

बहुत सन शाइन के साथ, वनस्पति पौधों को  पानी की आवश्यकता होती है और बहुत अधिक  होती है। अपने यार्ड का एक क्षेत्र चुनना सुनिश्चित करें जहां यह संभव है, यह सुनिश्चित कर लें कि आपका स्थान एक नली पाइप के साथ पहुंचा जा सकता है। बीज और पौधों को थोड़े पानी से सिर्फ एक पेय के साथ कामयाब हो सकता है, लेकिन वे बढ़ते हैं, उन्हें अधिक पानी की आवश्यकता होगी।

पत्थर और rubbish से अपनी मिट्टी साफ़ करें

एक बार जब आप सही स्थान पर पहुंचे, तो यह आपकी मिट्टी तैयार करने का समय है। यदि आप सीधे जमीन में रोपण कर रहे हैं, तो सुनिश्चित करें कि आपकी मिट्टी  सभी पत्थरों और rubbish से फ्री हो। सुनिश्चित करें कि आपकी मिट्टी उच्चतम गुणवत्ता की हो।

“वास्तव में सफल फसल की कुंजी अच्छी गुणवत्ता वाली मिट्टी है,”। “जो भी बुवाई की शुरुआत है, वह  शुरू होने से पहले, अच्छी खाद को जोड़ना मदद करेगा। चाहे वह किचन वेस्ट हो  या खरीदा compost हो, आपकी मिट्टी में एक अच्छी मात्रा वास्तव में अपने बीज को बढ़ावा देती है। “

हम मानते हैं कि मिट्टी स्वास्थ्य महान पौधे स्वास्थ्य के बराबर है। “यह आपकी योजना को योजना बनाने और अपने मिट्टी के लिए समय लेने के लिए समय लेने के लिए महत्वपूर्ण है,”। “हम प्रत्येक नए रोपण के मौसम में 2-3 इंच के साथ-साथ लगाए गए बिस्तरों में संशोधन करना चाहते हैं।”

सबसे आसान veggies के साथ शुरू करो

यह आप जहां रहते हैं, इस पर निर्भर करता है, लेकिन अपने बगीचे के लेआउट को शुरू करने का एक शानदार तरीका आसान-बढ़ने वाले पौधे है। अक्टूबर से, सब्जियों से शुरू करें जो बढ़ने के लिए बहुत मुश्किल नहीं हैं, जैसे सलाद पत्तियां, प्याज, बीट रूट, मटर, और आलू।

गर्मी में टमाटर, खीरे, मिर्च, कद्दू, और हरी बीन्स सभी के रूप में अच्छी तरह से विकसित करना आसान है।

और अगर आपके पास अभी तक सभी बीज नहीं हैं, तो फिर से सोचें। “आप पहले से ही ऐसे vegies बो सकते हैं, जो आपघर से ही बना सकतें हैं  “आप अपनी  सब्जियों से ले सकतें  हैं। Kitchen se aap मेथी,टमाटर,मिर्च ,सरसों आदि।

एक बार जब आपकी भूमि या प्लांटर्स तैयार हों, तो आप बीज लगा सकतें हैं या seedlings laga sakte Hain यह उतना ही आसान नहीं है आपको  ध्यान रखना पड़ेगा। 

यदि आप एक अच्छी  सब्जी की पैदावर सुनिश्चित करना चाहते हैं, तो कई बीज हैं जो एक दूसरे के पास  नहीं होना चाहिए,  इसके लिए companion पौधों को लगाया जाता है,  यदि एक बगीचे सही ढंग से योजना नहीं है कुछ पौधे कुछ गैर-लाभकारी कीड़े को आकर्षित करते हैं, जो एक साथ लगाए जाने पर अन्य सब्जियों पर हमला कर सकते हैं।

“उदाहरण के लिए, सेम और प्याज संगत नहीं हैं, क्योंकि बीन्स ने बायोकेमिकल्स के उत्पादन के लिए विकास को बाधित कर सकते हैं,” । “गाजर, हालांकि, सेम के बगल में वास्तव में अच्छी तरह से बढ़ते हैं-लेकिन वे अपने साथी जड़ सब्जी, पारस्पर के पास अच्छी तरह से बढ़ते नहीं हैं।”

अधिकतर बढ़ते मौसम में कीट सिरदर्द का कारण हो सकता है।  “जब पौधे मिट्टी के पोषक तत्वों, एयरफ्लो और सूर्य के प्रकाश के लिए प्रतिस्पर्धा करते हैं, तो आप विभिन्न प्रकार की कीटों और बीमारियों का स्वागत करते हैं। प्रत्येक सीजन में एक साथ काम करने वाले पौधों को लगाना चाहिए हैं जो उच्च-बढ़ते और कम फैलने वाले पौधों का एक संयोजन को ध्यान में रख सकते हैं।”

प्रत्येक पौधों की व्यक्तिगत जरूरतों पर ध्यान दें

वनस्पति उद्यान विभिन्न पौधों के साथ डिजाइन किया गया और उठाया उद्यान (raised beds) में बढ़ रहा है।

एक बगीचे की सफलता की गारंटी देने के सर्वोत्तम तरीकों में से एक अलग-अलग प्रत्येक संयंत्र के साथ व्यवहार करता है। यह करने का सबसे अच्छा तरीका बीज पैकेट के पीछे निर्देशों को पूरा करके है। वहां, आप परिपक्वता, प्रत्यारोपित तिथियों और विकास के लिए उपयुक्त तापमान के लिए दिन पाएंगे।

” आगामी सीजन के लिए आप क्या विकसित करना चाहते हैं, तो पैकेट पर तिथियां देखें और अपने temperature की जांच करें सुनिश्चित करें कि आप उचित मौसम (यानी: मिट्टी का तापमान) के साथ संरेखित कर रहे हैं,”।Ideal temperature is between 15 to 25 deg.

अपने लेआउट में प्राकृतिक बग-खाने वाले शामिल करें।(friendly bugs )

Companion plants की जोड़ी के लिए कुछ सुझाव, कीट नियंत्रण के साथ

Pests को नियंत्रित करने के लिए कुछ फूल वास्तव में महान हैं

“जब वह साथी रोपण की बात आती है, तो  फूलों के उपयोग के साथ  अच्छे बग-भी होने चाहिए   “अपने बेड में , कैमोमाइल, कैलेंडुला, गुलदाउदी, बोरेज, nastratium, और मैरीगोल्ड से आसान-देखभाल-देखभाल हो सकती है  Aphids, थ्रिप्स और अन्य विनाशकारी कीटों को नियंत्रित करने में सहायता के लिए लेडीबग, फीकाविंग, होवरफली और अन्य कीड़े को आकर्षित करेगा।”

जैव विविधता को अधिकतम करें

दिन के अंत में, उसका मुख्य लक्ष्य जैव विविधता को अधिकतम करता है, लेकिन यह एक बागवानी कौशल है जिसे आपको समय के साथ विकसित करने की आवश्यकता हो सकती है।

“पौधों का सही विकल्प आपके बगीचे के कार्यों को आसान बना सकता है, न कि हर हरियाली के बीच के रंगों के पॉप के बारे में वास्तव में बनावट की एक सुंदर परत जोड़ती है।

“दिन के अंत में, बगीचे एक जीवित चीज है।

Rama Tyagi