THE BUCK STARTS FROM HERE, AND STOPS HERE

Very recently, I was watching a video on one of the social media. (And I believe it to be true, though I am not so generous in believing so, generally!).

There is a RWA in one of the societies in Delhi area, where everything is recycled; no wastage; all food waste is composted; all old wearable clothes are donated to an NGO; functional water harvesting pits; separate dry and wet wastes; and so on. And the residents swear that all this is not very difficult; yes challenges are there.

Segregation of house waste generally falls in the scope of house maids. Well, that is the catch point. How do you motivate the maids to do this! They found a novel way. They used to sponsor so many activities for the poor around the area, like distributing free sanitary pads to the needy women. And that is where they were taught the importance of segregating waste.

They claim that for last three years, this colony has not produced any wet waste, but all has been converted to compost which is then used in the local gardens.

Then, the residents identified areas where the rain water used to collect. They formed the harvesting pits there and channeled the rain water there.

Not stopping at that, the residents have fitted aerators in the taps of the houses, so that less water is used.

It is proven that the aerator, by mixing air with water saves a lot of water.

The residents are in the habit of making Bio-Enzymes from the waste peels of vegetables, flower petals etc. Please note that bio-enzyme made at home is a chemical-free cleaning agent for the households, like kitchen sinks, slabs, floors etc.

We must remember that it is our responsibility to care for our planet where we live. And we must know how to maintain the delicate balance between our progress and environment.

Our another responsibility that lies in our hands is to “respect the grammar of nature”. Nature is not an “untouchable taboo.” The natural environment is not only matter subjectively available to human beings, but an admirable work of nature itself that carries within itself a “grammar” that indicates purpose and criteria for intelligent, non-instrumental, and arbitrary use.

One more of our responsibilities is to improve efficiency and sustainability when dealing with nature. Responsible governance of creation implies, among other things, improving energy efficiency and the search for alternative energies to reduce their harmfulness to the environment and the harm to humanity itself. But it has to be framed in a global project of relationship with nature in the key of “alliance between human being and a healthy environment,” which adequately weighs the path to the future. That considers the approach to be followed in each aspect.

So, the final word is that we respect the boundaries of nature, as we expect anybody else to honour the same.

Jai Hind!

GARDENING IN APRIL

Perennials are a must-have in your garden because of their ability to come back year after year, usually growing even stronger and more beautiful with age. But unlike annuals that can bloom non-stop for months, most perennials have a relatively short bloom season, lasting from just a few days to a few weeks. You can still ensure plenty of flowers from your perennials through the seasons by choosing varieties with staggered bloom times. And don’t be afraid to pack in the plants for the best color show: Where three or four types of annuals can brighten a bed all season long, you might need a dozen different perennials to make sure something is blooming from spring to fall. Start planning your continuously blooming garden by selecting a combination of these spring, summer and fall-blooming perennials for sun and shade.

• Cuttings and seeds of shrubs not sown in March can still be sown early this month.
•  You can propagate cuttings of Hamelia patens, Buddleja madagascariensis, Buddleja asiatica, Acalyphas, Duranta, Hibiscus, Bougainvillea, Petrea, Eranthemum, Dombeya etc.
• Seeds of Lantana, Tecoma stans, Hamelia patens, Murraya exotica, Cassias, Plumbago, Barleria etc. can be sown.
• Summer Annual seeds of flowers such as Zinnia, Sunflower, Gailardia, Gomphrena, Tithonia, Rudbeckia, Cosmos, Marigolds, Hollyhock, Kochia, Portulaca, Purslane,Coleus , Roselle can still be planted in this month.
• Established shrubberies will also require careful attention. After pruning, spread liberal quantities of manure in all types of jasmine, night queen(Raat ki rani),Plumeria ,hibiscus,oleander etc.
• Cannas will be at their best and can be propagated also.
• Summer bulbs such as Caladiums, Football Lily, Gloriosa lily, Ginger lilies, Day lilies, Crinum, Lycoris, Tuberose, Costus can still be planted.
• Seeds of winter annuals should be collected, cleaned and stored with proper labels.
• Prefer to buy fresh seeds of Aster, Carnations, Cineraria, Clarkia, Hybrid Dahlias, Godetia, Nasturtium, Nemesia, Pansy, Petunia, Stocks if you want to use them for exhibition.
• Rest of varieties may be safely collected and preserved. If possible put small notes of colour,species ,heights in the jars /pkts.
• Avoid drying in the direct sun or the vitality of the seed will be seriously impaired. When thoroughly dried and all rubbish removed store in airtight containers. Seal with wax and keep in coolest place. Before sealing do add any powder like Saaf or silica gel crystals.
• Foliage plants in pots can be repotted or fertilized adequately.
• Chrysanthemums can be transplanted now in 6in pots. These should be kept in the sunny position.
• Simultaneously prepare your pots and baskets for the seedlings.

Happy Gardening!!

Rama Tyagi

tyagirama1@gmail.com

“THE FLOWER SHOW MAR 2023”

THAT IS TALK OF THE TOWN

PRESERVING THE FLOWERS

It’s April now and our spring flowers are fading. It’s time to dry flowers and preserve them for the whole year. Which Flowers Are Best for Drying?
Look for flowers that have a small calyx and hold their petals tightly. (The calyx consists of the small green leaves—sepals—located at the base of the bud; they enclose and protect the unopened flower.)

• Dill and herbs
• Ferns
• Globe thistle
• Larkspurs
• Lavender
• Lisianthus
• Lunaria
• Pansies
• Queen Anne’s Lace
• roses and rose buds
• salvia
• statice
• strawflower
• Helichrysum
• Acroclinium

Drying your favourite garden flowers isn’t difficult. Here’s how to do it:
Pick flowers in the morning just before the blooms completely open. When you snip off the flowers from the plant, take 5 to 6 inches of stem, too.

• Strip off all foliage from stems.
• Secure a bundle of 8 to 10 stems with a rubber band or twist tie.
• Hang the bundle upside down from a hook or coat hanger in a dark, dry, well-ventilated area out of sunlight are ideal spots.
• In 2 to 3 weeks (or even less if the weather is hot) flowers will be completely dry. Some colours may fade, but most flowers retain their original hues!

Flowers with thin stems, like strawflowers, will need wiring because their stems crumble when dried. Use florist wire or a 20-gauge wire and push it through the centre of the calyx, pull it out the other side and then twist wire strands together forming a long stem. Hang flowers to dry .

Pressing Flowers

Another fun way to preserve your flowers is to press them!

How to Press Flowers

Here are three common ways to press flowers.

1. Pressing With a Book

Pressing flowers in a very heavy book is the easiest method. It’s best to pick a book that isn’t too dear to you as the pages may get damp.

• We’d also recommend “blotting paper” to draw out moisture. (If you don’t have blotting paper, use plain facial tissue or even non-corrugated coffee filters, however, avoid paper towels which may leave marks.) You can use newspaper also .
• Arrange your finds flat between sheets of smooth blotting paper/News Paper. Position as you wish. Leave space between multiple flowers.
• If you have a press, screw it tight, write down the date. If you don’t have a press, weigh flowers down with heavy books or bricks.
• Leave undisturbed in a warm, dry place for at least four weeks (possibly less) until the paper and the flowers are perfectly dry.
• Check on flowers every week and change blotting paper until paper and flowers are dry.
• Using tweezers, gently move the delicate dried flowers from the paper to mount on a card, and affix them carefully with a little diluted white glue, especially the sturdier parts (stem, leaves, buds).
• You may want to spray the finished arrangement with a clear acrylic spray or, if you put the flowers on a box, use clear varnish. Or
• Take a heavy book. Open to the middle and line the facing pages with parchment paper or wax paper. Then arrange the petals so they are face down on the parchment paper and close the book. Leave for 7 to 10 days to dry.
• If you prefer to preserve your full bouquet instead, you would need to use silica gel which you can find at craft stores. It’s a sandy-like substance. You can bury your flower bouquet in a box of silica gel for a week.

2. Pressing With an Iron

If you want to press flowers more quickly, try using an iron. Arrange your flowers between the pages of a book as above.

Heat an iron on low. (Ensure there is NO water in the steamer.) Then press the iron on top of the upper sheet of paper for 10 seconds. Do not move the iron back and forth. Just press down. Check the flower and repeat if not dried.

How to Preserve Leaves

Leaves from a flowering plant or a tree can also be preserved! Many drying methods often remove the colour from beautiful leaves. To keep a strong colour, the best way to dry leaves is to replace the moisture with glycerin by soaking the leaves in it. Glycerin is simply a clear liquid derived from vegetable oil and easily available with all chemists shop.
The technique called “glycerinizing” makes leaves and stems soft and pliable, which takes about 2 to 6 days. Here’s how to do it:

• Make a mixture of one part glycerin and two parts warm water. Stir well and pour into containers so the liquid is about 4 to 5 inches deep. Glass containers are best.
• “Glycerinize” the leaves by totally submerging the leaves in the mixture. They should be placed in a single layer and weighted to keep them beneath the liquid. After the leaves become soft and pliable, in about 2 to 6 days, they should be removed, drained and wiped clean with a soft cloth.
• If you wish, you can glycerize an entire branch to add to a flower arrangement. Select with foliage that’s about 18 inches long and split the stem end of the wood. Remove the lowest leaves. Put that stem end of the branch/branches into the glycerin/water container. As the branches absorb the mixture, add a reserve mixture of one part glycerin and four parts water to the original marked level.
• Foliage color will gradually change as the glycerin is absorbed. Most branches take from one to three weeks to glycerinize.

Once you’ve learned how to press flowers, you can also create arrangements of flowers for your own greeting cards, framed art, or invitations.

Happy Gardening
Rama Tyagi
tyagirama1@gmail.com.

Zinnias in vegetables garden.

The blooms of zinnias attract honeybees, bumble bees, butterflies, wasps, hummingbirds and more. Zinnias are a superstar when it comes to selecting companion plants to grow in your vegetable garden.

WORLD SPARROW DAY

(A mission to bring the little sparrow back to our gardens)

MANGAVE – THE ESSENTIALS

Every 2nd day we are getting regular queries about what Mangave is and how to take care of them. So we are sharing some facts and a few essential care tips. 

Mangaves are plants formerly given the nothogenus name ‘ Mangave’. (A cross between the genus Manfreda and genus  Agave). Manfreda is now included in Agave (Family: Asparagaceae), so the scientific name is obsolete. – The name ‘ Mangave’ was first coined in 2005 by Tony Avent (Plant Delights Nursery ) and Carl Schoenfeld and Wade Roitsch (Yucca Do Nursery).

Mangave originated from seeds collected as Manfreda in the wild in Northern Mexico that were growing adjacent to plants of Agave mitis (A. celsii). Only two seedlings from the original seed batch were hybrids.  Name – Mangave ‘Macho Mocha’ after that Another cultivar of the plant, ‘Bloodspot’ , was the product of breeding Agave maculata (Formerly known as Manfreda maculosa) and Agave macroacantha in Japan where introduced (Agave x bloodspot / x Bloodspot / Mangave Bloodspot / Agave macroacantha x bloodspot ).

At the same time that ‘Bloodspot’ was being developed, these crosses were being made by others including Dr. John Lindstrom of the University of Arkansas and Tony Avent of Plant Delights Nursery/Juniper Level Botanic Garden in Raleigh, North Carolina.

Two breakthroughs in the development of the hybrids came when Hans Hansen of Shady Oaks Nursery in Minnesota became the first person to successfully micro propagate mangaves.- Later on mangave  ‘Espresso’ and ‘Cappucino’ came from a mutation of ‘Macho Mocha’ through Tissue culture. 

Care Tips of Mangave

As per the personal experience- Regular watering during the growing season. They need more water as compared to other Agaves. They are not heavy feeders so In the growing season fertilize them once with balanced fertilizer that’s enough. They need High UV sunlight to show the actual bright colors- Regularly remove brown and damaged leaves from bottom if possible- Mostly mangave become giant so choose the pot size accordingly, Very good option for ground or landscaping – Always use well dain media, Required regular watering so make the media accordingly. They have very soft and delicate leaves and can be break easily so keep this in mind and take care while moving or shifting them- Mostly mangave produces offsets so you can propagate them easily (Take care while separating offsets because they have very delicate leafs-  They dehydrated very quickly after uprooting so nothing to worry about. They are very very growers as compared to other agaves so keep this in mind and make the necessary space management. (Approx 5 times higher growth rate as compared to other agaves.

Happy growing and learning !!

(ALL PHOTOGRAPHS OF THE PLANTS ARE COURTESY OF AUTHOR, who is an ardent grower of C&S)

Sandeep Rohilla

CHHAT PER BAAGVAANI

FROM THE PRESS

The leader of our group, Rama Tyagi has been going places. And this is not only about a particular person getting her due, but also means that the masses and corporates are becoming more aware about saving our planet.

Recently, the Indian Nersuryman Association opened their Ghaziabad & NOIDA Mandal Chapters where she was invited to participate in panel discussions.

EASTER, A CELEBRATION OF FLOWERS

There are many beautiful flowers traditionally associated with Easter, each with their own unique meanings.

Easter Flowers & What They Mean

1. Easter Lily
2. Daffodil
3. Tulip
4. Easter Cactus
5. Gerbera Daisy
6. Iris
7. Gypsophila (Baby’s Breath)
8. Hyacinth

In India when Easter comes it’s the onset of summers but in Europe Easter flowers signal that Spring has officially sprung (or its about to), and they are a beautiful way to spruce up space for sunnier days ahead.

1. Easter Lily

The Easter Lily (Lilium ) is a traditional Easter flower.

These trumpet-shaped blooms have come to represent spring.

They’re an eye-popping addition to garden landscapes thanks to the pure white beauty of the flower and its contrast with the strong vibrant-green stem.

And, they’re often seen decorating homes, offices, and churches at Easter. The Easter Lily Is A Popular Easter Flower.

What does the Easter Lily symbolise?

This flower symbolises purity, rebirth, and new beginnings.
Easter lilies are white with trumpet-shaped flowers. Traditionally, they are associated with purity and resurrection. This comes from Christian legend, which says that after Jesus’ death and resurrection, these flowers were found growing in the Garden of Gethsemane where Jesus prayed the night before the crucifixion.

The Easter lily also has associations with Pagan traditions where it’s associated with motherhood.

So, these blooms are a great way to showcase their love for their mother at Easter.
.
Remember: all lilies are poisonous to both cats and dogs. If you have pets, it’s best to skip keeping lilies in the house. If you must, keep them away from where pets can reach them!

2 The Easter cactus (Hatiora , formerly known as Rhipsalidopsis gaertneri), or “spring cactus” as it is also called, has flowers that typically bloom—you guessed it—in spring, around the time of Easter. The lovely star-shaped flowers open at sunrise and close at sunset, and come in a variety of colours —brilliant orange, violet, fuchsia, white, or red—to brighten your home just when you need it .

Easter cacti are native to the tropical rainforests of Brazil. In their natural environment, they grow in the crotches of tree branches but they do not damage or take anything from the host tree, so they are not parasitic.

3. Azaleas are among the earliest spring blooming shrubs—most of the rest of the early spring bloomers are bulbs. They come in all sorts of colours, and the flowers are quite popular during Easter as a symbol of temperance, moderation and love.

4. Kalanchoe – Cute and easy to care for, kalanchoe is a succulent with large green foliage and clusters of small flowers that bloom for many weeks indoors.

5. Gardenia (Bush and Topiary) – A fragrant and elegant flower, gardenias have glossy dark leaves and big white blooms.

6 Amaryllis: The plant we commonly call “amaryllis” is a South American native in the genus Hippeastrum, while the true amaryllis or belladonna lilies (Amaryllis spp.) are from South Africa. Both, however, are in the amaryllis family (Amaryllidaceae). The genus Hippeastrum is native primarily in tropical and subtropical regions in two main areas of Eastern Brazil and the central southern Andes (Peru, Bolivia and Argentina), but some species occur as far north as Mexico and the West Indies. There are about 90 species in this genus but most modern commercial hybrids are derived from 6 species.

• Easter lily
• Easter cactus
• Azalea
• Gardenia
• Amaryllis
• Kalanchoe

Happy Gardening
Rama Tyagi
tyagirama1@gmail.com

When to Prune a Lemon Tree.

Lemon trees come in all sizes from dwarf ,medium to tall which can be 30 feet or higher. Dwarf lemon trees can be grown in a pot and still you get normal fruit produce.

Since a lemon tree is an evergreen fruit-producing tree, it requires less pruning than deciduous fruit trees like peaches and figs. The pruning should be done in late winter after harvest or early spring after the risk of frost has passed but before the heat of summer arrives.

Pruning the lemon tree opens up the centre of the tree,which allows easy access for spraying ,and creates a larger fruit bearing area;sun rays reach the bottom too. Pruning also creates strong and sturdy branches to bear the weight of fruits.

Having a lemon tree in your garden offers a plant with year-round glossy green leaves, delicate, fragrant white flowers, and, in many growing zones, year-round fruit. While multiple lemon tree varieties can be grown in the garden or in a container, ranging from small to medium-sized to trees that reach 30 feet or more in height, all of them will need to be pruned to help maintain their shape and improve fruit production.

Pruning a lemon tree requires some basic gardening equipment and easy-to-learn skills. Let’s get your lemon tree into good shape.

• For newly planted lemon trees, it is important to remove shoots or small limbs that sprout from the base of the tree, as these are suckers from the plant’s rootstock. Most citrus trees are grafted onto rootstock, and the suckers do not produce the desired fruit variety. They can interfere with the health and development of the tree.
• Mature lemon trees produce best and are easier to harvest with regular pruning. Remove injured, diseased, or dead branches, as well as vertical water sprouts, crossing limbs, or touching branches to improve airflow and light. “Topping” a tree also helps keep it at a manageable height for easy harvest. Also, if a lemon tree is crowding other trees or impinging on a building, it should be pruned to prevent damage.

Before Getting Started

• Choose the proper time to prune lemon trees.
  Lemon trees are evergreen trees that do not demonstrate dormancy by dropping leaves .However the growth does slow down.Pruning should be done during the dormancy or at the onset of spring. Before starting a pruning project, all cutting tools should be sharp and clean. Sharp blades will cause less damage to tree tissues, and less damage helps prevent problems from insect pests and plant diseases.
• If you are pruning several lemon trees or moving between different types of trees, take the time to clean the tools between each job to prevent the spreading of diseases. This is particularly important if there are fungal or insect infestations in the garden.
• Lemon trees have thorns that can cause some pretty deep scratches. To protect your skin, wear a long-sleeved shirt, long pants, sturdy shoes, and eye protection, especially when pruning large trees
• Rub alcohol or 2-percent bleach solution to sterilise tools.
• Remove Shoots: Small shoots in a bud union (the angle between a leaf and the stem) should be removed as soon as they appear. Shoots that grow from the rootstock will not be productive and should also be removed with secateurs or hand pruners. Suckers that are green and new can be gently broken at the base. Suckers with woody stems should be cut with pruning shears with the trunk of the tree.
  
• The tree should have a balanced look.
  

Trim all to create a balanced look.
Remove the lower branches to give the tree a single,sturdy trunk. Choose 3 branches to be the main scaffold branches to train near the fruits. If required, cut the centre stem off to open the centre of the tree.
Cut off the tips of the main branches . Cut back all the thin branches and those branches that cross or block the sunlight from entering the tree. Thin fruit by plucking it off to produce larger fruits.
Do not allow trees to bear fruits until they are mature i.e. between 3 to 4 years old.

Remove Water Sprouts

Water sprouts, also called gourmands, are long, thick, vigorously growing branches that appear in the canopy of a lemon tree. The branches grow rapidly and use up large amounts of nutrients and water. Typically, they do not produce fruit but if they do, it is poor quality. Gourmands should be removed with a clean cut at the base of the shoot.

Removing Larger Branches
Any larger branches that are damaged, those crossing and touching another branch, and branches resting on structures should be removed.
Dead wood can be removed safely at any time of the year. Because lemon tree wood is brittle, a three-cut system for branches larger than 1 inch in diameter prevents the weight of the branch from tearing the bark or splintering the remaining portions of the branch.
For the first cut, start 10-12 inches away from the branch union to the trunk of the tree.
Cut a third to halfway through the branch from underneath (undercut).
Then move a few inches up the branch and cut from above, removing the branch. Make the final cut at the desired pruning point above the branch collar. The branch collar is the area around the base of a large branch, often visible as a ridge or wrinkled bark around the branch.

Cut any branches that are thinner than the diameter of a pencil.

Thinning the Canopy: The fruit of a lemon tree needs sunlight to mature and achieve the best flavours. If the canopy of the tree has become too thick because the tree has not been pruned correctly, it will need to be thinned. This may diminish fruit production for the year but will help the next crop be more tasty and plentiful.

If the canopy is ideal, you should see dappled sunlight on the ground beneath the tree at midday. To thin the canopy correctly, visually divide the tree into quarters based on the primary branch structure. Prune one section at a time removing branches to open lower branches to sunlight.

How to Prune a Container Lemon Tree
Remove Shoots
If shoots appear from the rootstock after planting the lemon tree in the container, remove them immediately.

Chopping the Young Tree: Newly planted container-grown lemon trees should be topped /chopped soon after planting if they are tall and spindly. Removing the top shoot will promote side shoots, which will develop into a lower, fuller, more attractive canopy. The shorter the tree remains, the easier it is to maintain.

Remove Dead and Flagging Branches. After growing in a container for three or four years, the lemon tree will develop flagging branches or dead wood. Flagging branches have only one leaf at the end of the branch or very small leaves.

These branches usually occur at the top of the container lemon tree. Remove flagging branches one by one with sharp hand pruners to improve the health of your tree. It is safe to remove up to 25 percent of the branches of your tree.

Tip
Lemon tree bark is thin and damages easily, so avoid nicking the bark.
Pruning cuts should always be made with the blade toward the tree to cut cleanly and avoid damage to the remaining branches.

Remember, If tiny lemons drop, Don’t worry. It is normal . Environmental factors such as a drop of temperature or heavy rain will cause this.

Happy Gardening
Rama Tyagi
tyagirama1@gmail.com.

FROM THE LENS OF THE MEMBERS