From the Editor’s Desk

Hello friends…..

Let us remember this by heart.

Whatever we do on this earth has a direct, and at times, not so direct effect on our planet.  At times, the effect may be so miniscule in size that you may say it does not matter.  Many a times, the effect, however big, may not be apparent at that moment.  But let us agree that whatever we do has an effect on Mother Nature.

Take for example, the outbreak of this pandemic, which refuses to die down.  Incidentally, there are many words which have become more common, which earlier used to be there only in the dictionaries of the scientists. For example, “zoonoses” is a word used for diseases caused by infectious agents shared between human and animals.  COVID-19 is just one of the latest examples of zoonoses.

The reasons for such outbreaks are not difficult to find. And luckily, we don’t have to be scientists to understand this.  We just need to be HUMANS, which, alas, we cease to be most of the time.

(Please pardon me if i have hurt sentiments of you human beings, specially so being a human myself).

We indulge into expansion of roads, metros, railways, gas pipelines, luxury condominiums, abusive agriculture etc in the name of economic development.  This leads to loss of natural habitats and deforestation, further leading to contact and conflict between human and wildlife.

Some infrastructure work leads to standing water bodies, which lead to increase in malaria-transmitting mosquitoes and spread of disease.

Increasing occurrences of wild fires force the wildlife to edge of rural and urban population, causing increased incidences of conflicts, some time so fierce that we humans feed the elephants pineapples laden with explosives. (This again strengthens my belief that we need to behave humanly).  It is a fact that smoke of wildfires lead to displacements of fruit-eating bats, which led to outbreaks of NIPAH virus.

It is also a fact that trade and trafficking of Bush meat significantly increase the risk of spread of pathogens far and wide and go to explain the strains of EBOLA and SARS-COV-2 viruses.

Hence there is a need for we humans to behave the way we should, and try to limit our greed for expansion in the name of economic development. 

And we, as individuals have lots to do with it.  Start honouring organic food, use food which is available locally, grow in your kitchen garden, recycle what you can, stop the use of non-degradable products, stop using chemicals, and so on.

And as usual, we stand committed to such causes which can save our mother planet.

Jai Hind!

PREPARING FOR VEGETABLES IN APRIL

Winter is gone summer has already arrived. It is  time to change our diet also.

Since summers bring various health issues like dehydration, vitamin deficiencies, and skin allergies with them, hence the consumption of seasonal vegetables becomes all the more important.

It not only keeps health troubles at bay but also makes your body feel its best throughout the hot season. So, you need not to just rely on refreshing icy drinks anymore! Start your journey of growing your own vegetables which are pest free and organic.

When it comes to growing a big, bountiful harvest of vegetables in pots, containers and raised beds, it all starts with planting in the best organic potting soil possible. And one of the easiest ways to do that is by creating your own “right at home”!

Popular vegetable plants like cucumbers, tomatoes and peppers are heavy feeders from the soil. Unfortunately, when these vegetables are planted into poor or tired soil, they end up with weak roots, stems and foliage. This of course, leads to a disappointing harvest.

Plants absorb a large share of nutrients and moisture through their root system. In fertile soil that is full of organic matter, the roots are able to soak in the nutrients they need with ease.  So here is one combination of the soil and other ingredients to keep your plants healthy.

Ingredients

• 6 cups pulverized topsoil
• 6 cups compost (cow dung)
• 2 cups of perlite( optional)
• 1 cup vermicompost
• 1/2 cup of neem khali and sarsonkhali
• 2 to 4 crushed egg shells

Or

Soil +sand + compost +sarson cake +neem cake +micronutrients in the ratio 4:3:2:1

Be sure you have good drainage in place for your containers. A few inches of gravel, charcoal or even a few larger rocks and stones placed in the bottom of each container can help excess water drain away from plants. In addition, be sure there are plenty of drainage holes at the bottom to let the water escape.

So here is to making the best organic potting soil mix for your vegetables!

Once again I would like to remind to treat soil before sowing. You can spray Jeevamrut too.

Buy your seeds from a reputable place. Remove all diseased plant debris. Soak your seeds in fungicide (carbendazim) or beejamrut/jeevamrut etc.

Crop rotation

Seeds are sown both directly and indirectly. Amaranthus seeds are to be broadcasted. For raising seedlings use sand and coco peat mixture in the ratio 1:1.

The vegetables which can be grown now are as follows.

Leafy vegetables: Amaranthus, spinach, mint, coriander.

Bulbous/Rhizomes:colocasia, turmeric, ginger,sweetpotato, Tapioca/ artichoke/ amorphophallus.

Cucurbits: Cucumber, gourds, pumpkin, marrows, melons, kakri, bittergourd, tinda , squash, parwal.

Pod crops: Beans, cowpeas, clusterbeans, lobia, sword beans , cho-cho (sechiumedule).

Stem crops:Asparagus

Root crop :Radish,

Besides these you can also sow Lady’s finger, Chillies, Egg plant, Maize etc.

Moringa seeds can also be sown now. You can sow seeds in situ and thin out later. Stake the climber vegetables. Make a watering schedule. Irregular watering will result in death of plants and no fruiting. Apply pheromones traps to control pests. Strawberries and tree tomatoes start fruiting. Protect them from birds by putting fishermen net. Grape vines should be trained from the beginning.

Those who had sown seeds in March must have sprouted. Thin out the weaker ones.

Finally I would suggest new gardeners to must sow plants like Curry Leaves, Moringa, Mint, Tulsi, Lemon Grass etc.

Mango, guava and citrus  trees need watchful eyes to look for pests and flower drops.

Grow what you eat and eat what you grow.

Happy Gardening.

Rama Tyagi

tyagirama1@gmail.com.

GARDENING WITH CHILDREN USING SENSES

It is common observation that when we are stressed out, we feel better when we go out in open, see greenery or hear sound of flowing water. Studies show that children’s exposure to computers, television, other hand-held devices and video games should be limited to not more than two hours per day.

Here we will discuss how we can engage children keeping in mind that we have to reduce their exposure to such devices to reduce their ill-effects. Decide time to go outside with your children and take advantage of our upcoming days by reconnecting with your children and your child within. It will relieve you from your stresses as well as theirs.

You can go for excursion nearby early in the morning. Instruct the children to take notebook and pen to note whatever they see.

Starting with the sense of touch—they should pick up an object which they feel interesting and can fit in their pocket. You should be vigilant that this object should not harm them. Let them pick up as many they can. When back home, tell them to touch and tell about the object they picked up. Encourage them even if they go wrong with identification.

For smell, explore your surroundings and pick up interesting samples of plant and minerals with smells. When you are back home with samples, share your findings without showing each other what you found. Now they need to guess what it may be and perhaps even be able to locate it.

Different Sounds are also fun. Just close your eyes and listen for at least a minute counting the number of different sounds there are; may be birds chirping, rustling of leaves, passing vehicles etc.. Discuss who noticed the most sounds. Who had the same sounds and who heard things that no one else heard?

For the sight, use as hidden treasures because the goal is to find something no one else could. Once everyone has found a special item, discuss giving them a feel of a spy.

For the sense of taste, make a new healthy snack that’s new for the children or keep new fruit or dry fruit. Prepare snacks keeping in mind the liking of the children. Have the children close their eyes before tasting a new tasty fruit or other crunchy healthy snack you think the kids will enjoy. Snacks are a nice way to end an activity or simply take a break.

Now try to remember your childhood and engage the children in the games you enjoyed in your childhood. It will help you also to enjoy your happy memories and of course children will love to play with you.

Vandna Bhatnagar

                                                                               nonofficia66l@gmail.com

SUCCULENTS 

Succulents are one of the most adorable, enchanting, strikingly beautiful and unusual ornamental plants; such fleshy and engorged, usually to retain water; that means they need less water.

In my experience while growing Succulents or any other plants, we must understand our plants and should try to bring harmony according to our agro-climatic zone / place etc. Some plants adopt to the climate and the place very easily. As we all know Succulents are little fussy, but once they adjust as per our place, they grow like crazy. So try to understand your plants nature, that’s the most important thing and the key take away from my side.
Beginners may start with some hardy ones like some Sedum, Crassula, Graptopetalum, Haworthia, Aloe  etc.

They need bright light, some moisture, but well drained soil. You  can water them every two days or once a week.

Today I’m sharing some of my hardy Succulents with my soil mix; they’re with me for the last 13‐14 years. I am sure this will come in handy for beginners.

Soil mix

My base is leaf mould, vermin-compost, cinder or wooden coals in equal amount. Then I add neem cake powder, completely dried bone meal (after buying let it dry in sun for at least 15 days or more), one spoonful of any fungicide; mix them well and use.

I plant new cuttings in Oct.

You can often water them with Humic acid water. Take two or three spoonful of Humic acid, mix in 2 litre of water and wet your plants. It is very very helpful for good root stocks. When plant root stocks are stronger, plants will look healthier and beautiful.

Manisha Bardhan

dollypihu@gmail.com

PERENNIAL PLANTS: GROWING BABY’S TEARS

Baby’s Tears (Soleiroliasoleirolii) is a mat-forming tropical perennial with myriad tiny leaves. It is equally valuable as an outdoor bedding plant and as a container plant and potted indoor houseplant. What makes Baby’s Tears plant so special are the myriad tiny leaves, which form a dense mat suggestive of a gnome’s green paradise. Although Baby’s Tears plants are easy for beginners, they require regular attention to look their best.

A member of the nettle family (Urticaceae), Baby’s Tears plants were first brought into the plant trade by botanist Joseph François Soleirol, who collected specimens in Corsica and is responsible for the plant’s Latin name.

Because it thrives in low-light conditions, Baby’s Tears is especially popular as a potted indoor plant, especially in terrariums and mixed containers. When grown outdoors in warm climates, Baby’s Tears are used as a mat-forming evergreen ground cover or filler plant for rock gardens. In colder zones, it is often planted outdoors as an annual for the same purposes, since it spreads quickly. This fast-growing plant is generally started from potted nursery plants in the spring.

• Botanical Name      Soleiroliasoleirolii
• Common Names     Baby Tears, Baby’s Tears, Angel’s Tears
• Mature Size             4 inches tall; spread of 36 inches or more
• Sun Exposure          Outdoors, part sun; indoors, bright filtered light
• Soil Type                   Rich, moist loam
• Soil pH                       5.0 to 6.0 ( slightly acidic)
• Bloom Time              Late spring to early summer; May to June
• Flower Color            Creamy ivory

Baby’s Tears Plant Care

The delicate appearance of Baby’s Tears plants belies the vigorous growth habit. In fact, in mild climates with regular rainfall, the plants can be weedy or even invasive.

When growing it outdoors, plant Baby’s Tears in moist, well-drained soil in a part shade to full shade location. Despite the reputation for aggressive growth, Baby’s Tears do not respond well to harsh sunlight or dry conditions. But in rich, well-drained but moist soil, the plant grows very aggressively. They will remain evergreen in very warm climates, but may often die back with the least hint of frost. As a potted plant, Baby’s Tears are very easy to grow in a standard potting mix.

Outdoors, Baby’s Tears have almost no serious pest or disease problems. Indoors, it may be affected by some of the same pests that affect many houseplants—aphids, mites, mealybugs. Use non-toxic solutions whenever possible, and be careful with chemical pesticides.

Light

Baby’s Tears plants will take brief periods of intense sunlight, but look their best in bright, filtered light. Plants growing in full sun may develop brown, scorched leaves. Baby’s Tears plants can thrive under artificial lights indoors. Outdoors, they should be planted in fairly shady locations.

Soil

A rich soil amended with humus, compost, or manure will increase the nutrients available to Baby’s Tears plants, and will also help to regulate the moisture level for plants.

Water

Baby’s Tears plants are thirsty and they never like to dry out. If your plants do dry out, you’ll notice a dramatic wilting taking place. Water them quickly, and within a day they should recover. Baby’s Tears houseplants will require slightly less water in the winter months. It is fine for the soil’s surface to be dry, but the soil around the roots should feel slightly moist.

Temperature and Humidity

As an outdoor specimen, the Baby’s Tears plant grows best in temperatures of 10 to 25 degrees Celsius. The higher the ambient temperature, the more attention the gardener must pay to light and humidity. Baby’s Tears plants can tolerate a light frost, but freezing temperatures may kill the top growth of the plant. Be patient; it will come back from the roots in this transitional climate.

Baby’s Tears plants appreciate a high humidity level. This makes them ideal for a steamy bathroom or kitchen. In drier environments, the plants appreciate the humid confines of a terrarium.

Fertilizer

A balanced plant fertilizer will keep the foliage of Baby’s Tears plants bright green and dense. Liquid fertilizers are easier to apply.

Baby’s Tears Varieties

The standard green species of Baby’s Tears is most commonly available. However, there are two color variants available, including ‘Aurea’ with golden foliage, and ‘Variegata’ with white stippling. The green color is dominant across all varieties, and you must prune away any green stems in the gold and variegated types to prevent them from reverting to solid green.

Potting and Repotting

A potting soil lightened with additional coco peat or perlite provides a healthy growing medium for plants.

Baby’s Tears plants work well in a variety of container situations. In a small hanging basket, the spreading plants can spill attractively over the sides. In a terrarium, the plants can creep to the edges of the glass, hiding all bare soil. In a mixed outdoor planting, place baby tears plants at the edge of the container.

Baby’s Tears plants grow quickly and need to be re-potted regularly. Pot-bound plants are more susceptible to drying out, and you’ll notice an increased occurrence of wilting in plants that need to be re-potted. Because the stems are so fragile, you must not pull plants out of their containers by the stems or leaves. Turn the pots upside and tap them, squeeze them, or push on the drainage hole with a pencil to coax the plants loose. Repot with new potting soil, and water thoroughly.

Propagating Baby’s Tears

Baby’s Tears plant propagates easily. Wherever stems are touching the soil, they will form roots. Plants can spread without limit in this fashion. If you wish to create new plants for different containers, separate a section of stems with soil and roots with a small trowel. Don’t worry about damaging the plant; it will regenerate quickly. Replant the division and keep it watered, and it will start to grow without skipping a beat.

These plants are almost never propagated by seed.

Pruning Baby Tears

It isn’t necessary to prune Baby’s Tears plants for good health, but shearing often improves the appearance of the plants .

Happy Gardening

Rama Tyagi

tyagirama1@gmail.com.

INSECT & PEST MANAGEMENT FOR THE MONTH OF APRIL

Spring is the season when plants wake up from dormancy and start their cycle of growth. Along with this pests also wake up. In winters they lie under soil but as soil warms up they also start invading our plants.

PESTS OF VEGETABLES

PESTS OF BRINJAL

1. Borers

Shoot and fruit borer : General symptoms of damage are withered terminal shoots, bore holes on shoots plugged with excreta, shedding of flower buds, drying of leaves due to boring on petioles by larva.

Stem borer : Stunted growth, withering and wilting of plants. Bore holes on stem and leaf axils are covered with excreta; Infestation caused by larva.

Bud worm : Larva causes shriveling and shedding of flower buds.

2. Leaf feeders

Spotted beetle (or) Haddabeetle : Both grubs and adults feed by scrapping chlorophyll from epidermal layers of leaves which get skeletonized and gradually dry up.

Leaf roller : Leaves are folded from tip to downwards followed by withering and drying up of leaves. Purple brown larva is ornamented with yellow spots and hairs.

Ash weevils : Adults cause notching of leaf margins.

3. Sap feeders

Leafhopper : Symptom of damage is yellowing of leaves followed by crinkling and downward curling leading to bronzing and hopper burn.

Aphid : Curling and crinkling of leaves, stunted plants with honeydew secretion and sooty mOld are the symptoms of damage. Large numbers of aphids are seen on tender/apical shoots.

4. Root feeders

Termites: Trinervitermesbiformis, Microtermesspp : Nymphs and adults gnaw the roots below the ground level, tunnel upwards through the stems and eat inner tissues. The affected plants wither and dry especially in light soils.

PEST MANAGEMENT IN BRINJAL

Shoot and fruit borer

a. Collection and destruction of infested plant parts like shoots, buds and fruits.

b. Spray anyone of the following twice at 30 days after planting at a fortnightly interval.

• Quinalphos 25 EC / NO 2 ml/lit + Teepol 1 ml/lit.
• Neem Seed Kernel Extract (NSKE) 5% (50 g/lit).
• Growing resistant varieties like Pusa Purple cluster, Arka Kusmak, Doli 5 etc.,

Ash weevil

Apply carbofuran 3G @ 15 kg/ha, 15 days after planting.

Aphids

Spray methyl demeton 25 EC or dimethoate 30 EC @ 2 ml/lit when the situation warrants.

Epilachna Beetle

• Collect and destroy severely affected leaves along with grubs, pupae and beetles.
• Spray fipronil 2 ml/lit.

Whitefly

• Monitor the by using yellow sticky trap @ 1.2/lti
• Spray Neem oil 3 ml/lit + Teepol 1 ml/lit or NSKE 5% .

PESTS OF TOMATO

1. Borer

Fruit Borer : Young larva feeds on tender foliage and from fourth instar onwards infests fruits. They make circular holes and thrust only a part of their body inside fruit and eat inner content .

Stem borer : Stunted growth, withering and wilting of plants, stem and leaf axils covered with excreta covering boreholes are symptoms of infestations.

2. Leaf Feeder

Leaf miner : Leaves are often with serpentine mines followed by drying and dropping of leaves due to infestation. Larva is orange yellowish and apodous. Adult is a pale yellow fly.

Tobacco caterpillar : Young larvae scrap the leaves on the ventral side. Grown-up caterpillar completely defoliates. Larvae also feed on young fruits. Yellow and purplish spots are seen on the sub-marginal areas.

Green semilooper: Leaves are with holes and skeletonisation and defoliation represents severe damage.

Spotted beetles : Both grubs and adults feed by scrapping chlorophyll from epidermal layers of leaves which get skeletonized and gradually dry up.

3. Sap Feeders

Green peach aphid : Leaves get curled and crinkled coated with honey-dew and sooty mould. Plants remain stunted. Nymphs occur in different colour forms viz., yellow, green and red. Yellow forms are dominant. Both winged and wingless adults are common.

Fruit sucking moth : Adult sucks the juice by piercing the fruits. Infested fruits will shrink, shrivel, rot and ultimately drop down.

Semilooper is with orange blue and yellow spots on its velvety dark speckled body. Forewing are gray with white patches and a tripod black mark in the center of each. Hind wings are yellow bearing black patches on the outer margin and curved patch in the middle. The larvae feed on the leaves of the creeper weed Tinospora cordifolia.

PEST MANAGEMENT IN TOMATO

Fruit borers

• Plant 40 days old marigold (American Tall) as trap crop with 25 days old tomato seedlings @ 1:16 row ratio.
• Set up pheromone traps.
• Collect and destroy infested fruits, leaves, egg and gregarious larvae.

PESTS OF BHENDI

1.Borers

Stem weevil : The grub causes gall like swellings on the stem near the base. Adults feed on leaves, buds and tender terminal shoots.

Shoot weevil : Grubs bore into stem and petioles causing gall like swellings. Adults feed on leaves, buds and tender terminal shoots. Grub is creamy yellow and apodous. Adult is dark greyish brown with pale cross bands on elytra.

Shoot and fruit borer: Symptom of attack is withering and drying of tender shoots in the early stage. Larva bores into flowers and flower buds causing withering and dropping of the same. Fruits with bore holes are seen often and sometimes deformed.

Stem fly : The maggot bores into tender shoots and petiole of leaves resulting in drying of leaves and seedlings. Maggot is yellow in colour. Adult is a small black fly.

Fruit borer : Young larva feeds on tender foliage and onwards attack fruits. They bore circular holes and thrust only a part of their body inside fruit and eat inner contents.

2. Leaf Feeders

Leaf roller : Young larvae feed on the epidermis, roll the leaves, feed within and eat away the rolled portions. Larva is bright green with a dark head and prothoracic shield. Moth is with yellowish fore and hindwings with brown lines and distinct markings.

Semilooper : The caterpillar completely feeds on the leaves (defoliation).

Anomis flava: Larva is green in colour with 5 white longitudinal lines. Adult is a brown and medium sized moth.

 Acontia (Xanthodes) graellsii: Larva is green in colour with horse-shoe-shaped black markings on each segment. Moth is yellowish with black markings brown in colour and with white patches on the dorsum.

Eariasvitella : small buff colored. Forewings with a wedge shaped green patch in the

Middle. E. insulana: entire forewing is green.

Stem fly : The maggot bores into tender shoots and petiole of leaves resulting in drying of leaves and seedlings. Maggot is yellow in colour. Adult is a small black fly.

Fruit borer : Young larva feeds on tender foliage and from fourth instar onwards attack fruits. They bore circular holes and thrust only a part of their body inside fruit and eat inner contents.

Anomis flava: Larva is green in colour with 5 white longitudinal lines. Adult is a brown and medium sized moth.

 Acontia (Xanthodes) graellsii: Larva is green in colour with horse-shoe-shaped black markings on each segment. Moth is yellowish with black marks all over the wings. Tarachenitidula: Larva is green in colour and resembles bir’s droppings. Adult is white with grey markings.

Tobacco caterpillar: Young larvae scrap the leaves on the ventral side. Grown-up caterpillar completely defoliates. Larvae also feed on young fruits. Larva is pale greenish brown with dark markings. Yellow and purplish spots are seen on the sub-marginal areas. Adult is stout moth with wavy white markings on the brown forewings and white hindwings are having a brown patch along its margin.

PEST MANAGEMENT IN BHENDI

Sucking pests (Leaf hopper, aphids and whiteflies)

• Grow whitefly tolerant varieties like ArkaAnamica, Hisar, Unnat, Varsha Uphar or P7 (or) fruit borer resistant varieties like Parkins Long Green, Karnal special.
• Spray dimethoate 30 EC 2 ml/lit, or Neem Seed Kernel Extract 5%.(5gm/lt).

PESTS OF CUCURBITS

Fruit flies : The maggots feed on the pulp of the fruits and the symptoms of damage include oozing of resinous fluid from fruits, distorted and malformed fruits , premature dropping of fruits and unfit for consumption. Maggot is white and apodous.

Snake gourd stem weevil : Grub bores into the stem/petiole and causes withering.

Stem gall fly : Maggot bores inside the distal shoot and induces galls. Adult is a slender and dark brown mosquito like fly.

Stem borer : Larva bores into the stem of snake-gourd and produces gall. Adult is a dark brown moth with transparent wings.

Leaf miner : Leaves are often with serpentine mines followed by drying and dropping of leaves due to infestation. Larva is orange yellowish and apodus. Adult is pale yellow fly.

Snake gourd semilooper : Larva cuts the edges of leaf lamina, folds it over the leaf and feeds from within the leaf roll. Larva is whitish green and the body is with black warts, off-white longitudinal stripes and a hump on its anal segment. Stout dark brown adult has shiny brown forewings.

Pumpkin caterpillar : The caterpillars lacerate and feed on chlorophyll of foliage; later fold and web the leaves together and feed within. They may also damage the ovaries of flowers and  boring into young developing fruits. Larva is elongate, bright green with two narrow longitudinal stripes dorsally.

Pumpkin beetle: Grubs feed on the roots, stem and fruits that spread over the soil. Adults feed on leaf and flower. Grub is creamy yellow. Adult is grey black with black or blue colour with glistening yellow red border.

Fruitfly

In endemic areas, sowing time may be adjusted in such a way that fruiting should not coincide with monsoon. Fruit fly resistant pumpkin varieties like ArkaSwarramuki may be grown.

Ribbed gourd may be grown as a trap crop and carbaryl 50 WP 2 g/lit (or) malathion 2 ml/lit, may be sprayed on the congregating adult flies on the under surface of leaves.

Attractants like citronella oil, eucalyptus oil, acetic acid (vinegar) dextrose and lactic acid may be used to trap adult flies.

Poison baiting may be employed with saturated sugar solution 5 ml + malathion 50 EC 5 ml + 100 ml fermented palm juice. This mixture may be kept in earthen vessels in many places in the field. Use fishmeal trap to attract and kill the flies. Take 5 g of wet fishmeal in a (20 x 15 cm) polythene bag. Make six holes (3 mm dia.) around the periphery of the bag at equidistance at about 2 cm from the bottom of the bag. Impregnate an absorbent cotton plug with 1 ml of dichlorvos and keep this also inside the poly bag.

Suspend such fish meal traps at places in the field.

Dichlorvos and fish meal should be replenished every week .

PESTS OF JASMINE

Bud worm : Damaged buds are with boreholes and often webbed with silken threads. Webbings are soiled with excreta. Larva is dark green with black head. Adult is a small white moth with black palpi.

Gallery worm : Terminal leaves shoots and flower buds are webbed together by the larvae. Larva is green with red head and thorax and lateral brown streaks on the body. Adult is a small and dark grey moth.

Blossom midge : The maggot causes swelling at the base of the buds, stunting and then drying. Adult is with light brownish wings having white spots.

Leaf webworm : Leaves are webbed with loose silken threads and then skeletonised. Larva is green with dark warts. Adult is with light brownish wings having white spots.

Jasmine eriophyid mite : Severe infestation results in felt like hairy outgrowth (white velvety erinium) on the surface of the leaves, tender stem and flower buds.

Flower thrips : Flower petals are lacerated and are with brown streaks Adult is small and black in colour.

PEST MANAGEMENT IN JASMINE

Budworm / blossom midge : Spray monocrotophos 2 ml/lit or endosulfan 2 ml/lit.

Red spider mite and Erineummites : Sulphur 50 WP 2 g/lit or dicofol 2.5 ml/lit.

PEST MANAGEMENT IN ROSE

Beetles : Hand picking the beetles during dry time and spray Endosulfan.

All fruit trees like Mango, guavas, chikoo, plums, grapevines, citrus trees, pomegranate have to be checked periodically and measures taken in advance to protect trees ,flowers and fruits.

Adopt organic methods like Jeevamrut, Neem kernel extracts and other measures. Chemical spraying should be done in the extreme case of endemic diseases.

Eat healthy, grow organics.

Rama Tyagi

tyagirama1@gmail.com.

CONTROL OF ANNUAL WEEDS

Weeds are the unwanted plants which grow freely without planting and compete with our vegetable and flower plants for food, water and sunlight. Sometimes they are carrier of diseases and attract harmful insects like aphid. These weeds can grow in any season, can be perennial or annual but during spring their growth is very high. Seeds or vegetative parts of these weeds can come with compost, nursery brought plants or even by air.

 Here we are taking annual weeds like purslane, amaranths etc. It is easier to control them by following the suggested steps.

Regular survey of your garden and pots: As soon as you see the weeds, take them out and bury in the soil at least two inches deep after shredding.

Do not till very deep in soil: While tilling the soil donot hoe very deep as it may bring weed seeds on upper side and after getting suitable condition, they will grow fast.

Identify weed in your garden: Before you pull out the weed make sure that it is not your vegetable or flower seedling.

Grow plants which compete with weeds: Vegetables like tomatoes, potatoes, cabbage, melon and beans compete with weeds for food and water and due to their big size cover the weeds. Weeds die naturally on not getting basic requirements to grow.

Add organic or inorganic mulches: Best way to avoid weeds is mulch. Use straw, grass clipping, coir etc. It will benefit the plants by retaining soil moisture and also add organic matter. Inorganic mulches can be plastic sheets or green net.

Cover the pathways: The pathways can also be good breeding place for weeds, so cover using card board, rugs or straw.

Use organic weedicides: Clove oil and acetic acid can be used to spray directly on the weeds during day time under sun. Your plants may also get a set back but they will recover soon. While spraying target as far as possible the weeds, Use acetic acid judiciously as it may change pH of the soil.

Hope you will be able to get a garden with reduced weeds but remember these are also the part of the ecosystem of your garden.

Vandna Bhatnagar

nonofficia66l@gmail.com

TREND SETTER: JAPANDI

WHAT IS JAPANDI?

Japandi is a combination of two different styles: modern Scandinavian design which are streamlined, practical, light and easy to live with – and the traditional rustic Japanese minimalist aesthetic. Together, they create Japandi, an elegant, calming look that focuses on clean lines, pale colors and bright rooms.

Rattan, bamboo, cotton, hemp and paper – are a key component of Japandi style. For visual interest, you can add in some cool metals too. Alongside bamboo and rattan, wood is an obvious choice for furniture. Scandinavian pieces typically feature clean, simple lines. Meanwhile, in Japan, it’s more common to have stained or painted woods and curved shaped furniture.

One of the essences of Japandi style is the ancient Japanese philosophy of wabi-sabi,

‘Wabi-sabi is a way of life which values slow-living, contentment and simplicity, as well as the Scandinavian practice of hygge, which embraces comfort, coziness and well-being. Japandi blends the smooth, modern lines of Scandinavian design with the sleek, functional, elegance of the Japanese aesthetic.’

Japandi is a fusion of east and west style – Scandinavian elements teamed with the design traditions of Japan. It’s the perfect trend for those who love a bit of order – the organizational element of the look creates a calming feel with its pared back styling, natural materials and use of craftsmanship. Ultimately, it’s a homey trend.

When considering paints to work with this style, select colors with a gentle neutral feel, rather than pure whites opt for Flint or China Clay, which will create a warm and soft appearance.’

‘In place of brighter highlight colors, turn to muted greens and earthy clay tones such as Ambleside, Sage Green and Lute. Or deep tones such as Dock Blue and deep grey-green Pompeian Ash which will add depth to a Japandi design scheme. Absolute Matte Emulsion with its beautifully low sheen level or soft powdery Distemper delivers the chalky paint finish suited to this natural, simple style.’

Terracotta pots and green plants go very well in Japandi style.

Rama Tyagi

tyagirama1@gmail.com.

THE WORLD EARTH DAY

The “green things growing” whisper me of many an earth-old mystery.

–Eben Eugene Rexford

Every year earth day is given a special theme. The Theme for 2021 is “Restore Our Earth.”

Cleaning rivers to remove harmful plastics, debris or silt is common practice.

Due to COVID Pandemic situation, this year it will be Digital by organising virtual events like environment lectures and films .This is to maintain Social distancing. But we can go out and do our share of work to mark this day. Only we have to do it responsibly.

The first Earth day was held on April 22, 1970.It purpose is to deal with issues like toxic drinking water, air pollution, use and effect of pesticides, fertilizers etc. which are killing Our Earth.

Today, Earth Day is not only a day to increase awareness of environmental problems but it’s also become a popular day for many communities to gather together and clean up litter, plant trees, or simply reflect on the beauty of nature.

The EARTHDAY.ORG India Trust, launched in 2010, conducts programs to reach out to varied demographic profiles across the length and breadth of the country—from those at the grassroots to policymakers. Earthday.org coordinators cover the whole of India, conducting regular programs across the length and breadth of the country in all of the myriad geographic regions.

 We are calling on everyday citizens to rise up and come together to engage the public, educate people about the environment, and act to make positive and sustainable changes to protect the earth that we all live on. Earth Day is not a day, but a movement.

THE MAIN FOCUS FOR INDIA’S COUNTRY-SPECIFIC CAMPAIGNS ARE:

Trees4Earth: Inspiring the planting of 7.8 billion trees, one for every person on Earth

Global Climate Literacy: Growing stewardship for the environment and enabling educated decision-making

End Plastic Pollution: Reducing plastic and managing plastic waste

Protect Our Species: Protecting our species from extinction –

EARTHRISE for Climate Change: Coming together to solve climate change-related issues — perhaps the greatest challenges humanity has ever faced.

We should pledge to help in saving the earth by following 3 R^,s—Reduce ,reuse and recycle. It is the need of the hour as we are already facing problems like draught , excess of rain or no rain and climate change.

(Courtesy Internet)

Vandna Bhatnagar

                                                                                                   nonofficial66@gmail.com

STORING BULBS

What Are Bulbs?

A bulb is a rounded part at the base of a plant’s stem that stores energy while the plant is dormant. At the centre of the bulb is the plant shoot itself, which is surrounded by layers of carbohydrates. Some bulbs, called tunicate bulbs, are covered in a papery skin called a tunic; imbricate bulbs have no tunic. Corms, tubers, tuberous roots, and rhizomes are all bulb-like storage organs but are not, in fact, true bulbs.

In India we have all bulbs in the spring category.

 Spring bulbs, such as tulips, daffodils, crocuses, and hyacinths, the list is large. When their foliage wilts in the summer, you can trim away some of the dead plant matter, but leave the bulbs in the ground; or pot to bloom next spring. Some gardeners dig up hardy bulbs anyway, to divide or replace overcrowded bulbs for maximum yield.

How Long Can You Store Bulbs?

Tender bulbs go into storage —meaning they spend about four months in storage.

How to Store Bulbs

Harvest bulbs. Wait to dig up bulbs until all of the plant’s foliage has died. Trim the foliage down to about six inches and gently dig the bulbs out of the ground, being careful not to damage them. Compost any damaged bulbs.

Cleaning: If your bulbs were dug up from the ground, gently brush off any excess dirt. Do not wash the bulbs as this can add excess water to the bulb and cause it to rot while you are storing bulbs for the winter.

Dry bulbs: Allow the bulbs to air-dry indoors on paper towels or newspapers for at least two weeks. Choose a dry place with good air circulation. Test a bulb’s dryness by trimming the stem. (Leave at least two inches of stem, or the bulb may start to root from the sprouting end.) If the stem is moist inside, the bulbs need more time to dry.

Packing the bulbs: Store tender bulbs in paper bags, reusable mesh bags, or cardboard boxes with air holes poked in for air circulation. Fill the container with peat moss, sawdust, or vermiculite—enough to cover each bulb by one inch. Make sure the bulbs have enough air circulation to prevent rotting.

Packing: Remove the bulbs from any plastic bags or containers.  One of the things to keep in mind when you are learning how to store bulbs for winter is that if you store your bulbs in a material that cannot “breathe,” the bulbs will rot. Instead, pack your bulbs in a cardboard box for storing bulbs for the winter. When preparing bulbs for winter, layer the bulbs in the box with newspaper in between each layer. In each layer of bulbs, the bulbs should not be touching one another.

Store bulbs in a dry place until you’re ready to replant them. Aim for a storage temperature like a refrigerator. Store tropical bulbs in a slightly warmer area. Check on them occasionally. Another tip for how to store garden bulbs over the winter is to check them about once a month. Squeeze each one gently and toss any that have become mushy.

Planting bulbs

Planting time will depend on the variety of bulbs, but you’ll generally plant tender summer bulbs in November. If your main bulb has several smaller daughter bulbs attached to it, you can divide it before planting. Healthy bulbs should be large, firm, and free of fungus or rot. Discard any mushy or cracked bulbs.

Happy Gardening.

                                                                Rama Tyagi

                                                                tyagirama1@gmail.com.

MECHANICS FOR PRESERVING PLANT MATERIAL:

DRIED PLANT MATERIAL

The dried stems may be supported in dry plastic foam, art clay, or in plaster of paresis dried and fresh plant material (which needs water) are to be combined in an arrangement regularly or for any length of time, it is necessary to dip the stem ends of the dried plant material in melted candle wax or nail polish for protection against water. If the stem is cut ,it should be re-dipped. Dried flowers without stems can be glued to branches or twigs or they can be wired .

Glycerine Plant Material

The stem ends may be supported by the same methods as fresh plant material. Sometimes mildew can occur and if it does cut off the mildew parts of the stem seal the stem ends.

Wiring

Single leaves and cones can be wired by a stub wire through the centre of the flower. Make a small hook at the end and pull this down into the centre of flower. The stub can be bound with green florist’s tape or wire can be placed into hollow stems of dried plants.

Pressed Flowers

Pressed flowers can be used to make picture frames mounted on heavy paper, mounting board or fabric covered board.

Greetings cards can also be made with dried flowers and leaves.

Plaques

Plaques can be made of hardwood, or peg board cut into any shape. Candles and coasters can be made with them using wax and resins.

Swags

A swag from dried plant material can be made. Pegboard or plastic foam / Thermocol and wire netting can be used as base.

 Options are plenty. You can dry your flowers now and use them the whole year.

Happy Gardening.

Rama Tyagi owers

tyagirama1@gmail.com